The launch comes at a challenging time for the retail sector, which has been hit by higher interest rates, raised inflation, rising energy bills and ongoing supply chain issues. Footfall is recovering in the UK, but still remains below pre-pandemic levels. UK’s total retail footfall in November was 13.3 per cent lower than in 2019, according to the latest British Retail Consortium Sensormatic IQ monitor. Jonathan De Mello, founder and chief executive of JDM Retail, an independent strategic retail consultancy, points out that retail space in Soho is in hot demand, but Upper James Street is “not a particularly busy” location in terms of footfall, and acts as more of a side street. Pyo hopes the strength of her community will help drive interest, engagement and sales — many customers came out for a recent sample sale, she notes. “We’ve been around for a while so we really know who we are, and what our customers want from us.” Some physical experiences can’t be replicated online, she adds. “Online [shopping] is a funny experience because you have to know what you’re looking for. That takes away the sense of discovery.”A creative showcaseThe store is her first tangible move into a lifestyle space, showcasing the art and interiors that inspire the brand (Pyo wants to expand the brand into those areas in the coming years). The store features rails and mirrors that Pyo collaborated on with furniture designer-maker Barnaby Lewis, and tables with lacewood legs and an aluminium and travertine stone top co-created by Pyo and interior designer Elliott Barnes. Independent bookshop Claire De Rouen, which specialises in new and rare books on photography, fashion and art, curated some picks for the store. There are also works by up-and-coming painter Catherine Repko. “It’s an unconventional retail space, full of curiosities,” Pyo says. She intends to use the store as a hub to showcase artists that she’s excited by, host shop-in-shop pop-ups for other brands and also events such as a series of talks with women from the brand’s community. “It should feel a bit raw and warm, like going to a friend’s house and seeing the bits they’ve collected over their lives, the books they’re reading, the music they’re interested in, and of course their amazing wardrobe.” Growing independentlyThis year will mark Pyo’s eighth in the business. After graduating from the MA at Central Saint Martins, she became Roksanda Ilinčić’s first assistant, before launching her own brand in 2014. Accessibility and inclusion has always been a top priority. While Pyo’s collections are not high-street prices, they’re not as out-of-reach as some of the brands at London Fashion Week: a faux leather trench coat costs £775, a tencel print dress is £490 and a mini crossbody leather bag is £370. The designer has also consistently championed diversity on the catwalk, making a point each season to cast models across multiple shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities.